Saturday, July 28, 2012

The Olympic Games

I wanted to take a short break from the normal and rather intense posts to celebrate one of my favorite events.  Every four years the world gets together to see who is the best.  The United States of America usually shows up and dominates.

The 2012 Olympic Games in London began last night and there was no way I was going to miss opening ceremonies.  At 3:00am local time I sat at a bar with many other volunteer workers (most of whom are British) and enjoyed the beginning of the games. In the spirit of this great event I present to you this wonderful picture from last night:




And yes, that is an American flag painted on my face.  U.S.A! U.S.A.! U.S.A.!

Let the games begin...

Friday, July 27, 2012

Bump, Set, Can you teach me English?

My senior spring of college was made memorable for many different reasons. The people I spent time with, the memories I made and the grand finale of graduation will forever be entities that I will look back on an remember with a smile. When I think back to only a few months ago, numerous events come to mind that make me extremely happy. Many of these unforgettable moments were crafted on a somewhat sandy but mostly dangerous area that my fraternity brothers liked to call a beach volleyball court. Countless hours were spent out in the sun playing volleyball, laughing, drinking a few beers and just being college seniors who were enjoying life. For the record, I have never really been taught to play volleyball, I sort of just picked it up along the way and honed my skills outside of my fraternity house as well as on the beaches of Israel went I spent a semester abroad there. In no way am I the best volleyball player, however, I do consider myself someone who can hold their own on the court. While settling in to Siem Reap I was delighted to not only find that volleyball is HUGE here but also that there are two volleyball courts right next to my house. Even better, the courts are equally as dangerous as the one I am so use to; I felt right at home.

I started noticing that around five o'clock everyday a group of tuk-tuk drivers would be playing volleyball, laughing and enjoying themselves. I figured I had to try to join them. What I subsequently found out was:

1. They have never had a westerner play with them or even try.

2. They play for a bit of money to make it interesting.

3. They rent the court space from a nice fellow who charges $.25 per set.

4. These guys had skill: they comfortably controlled the ball and hit with great power and meaning.

5. They thought I sucked and didn't want me to play.

This would turn most people away to never return or even attempt to to get in on a game. Not me, I am a Minerva Fellow and that is not in my blood. I stayed, watched patiently and made friends with those who could speak English. Eventually, I was given my opportunity. Talk about pressure...The first serve came over the net and one of my teammates set the ball to my other teammate (we were playing on teams of 3) who then lofted up a perfectly high and perfectly placed set for me to spike. I excitedly jumped in the air, powerfully came down on the ball and hit it straight out of bounds. I guess you have to fail before you can succeed. The next serve was much better and the games I played were extremely fun. More importantly, it gave me the opportunity to show these guys that I didn't suck...they invited me back to play whenever I wanted.

The most rewarding part of this entire experience was not defending my manhood on a sandy square in the middle of a Cambodian city. Although that was invigorating and worth the price of admission (I spent $.75), it was not the reason I went back the next day. Instead I returned because of the wonderful conversation I had with a extremely welcoming Cambodian man. We talked about America, the New York Yankees, English and all sorts of random topics. He essentially just fired questions at me and was genuinely intrigued by the answers. Little did I know I was just scratching the service with this person...

The next day I saw him again and we began chatting as we watched the games that were already in progress. He began to tell me about his family, where he came from and what he enjoys about living in Siem Reap. After some more discussion we started talking about learning English. He had learned English in high school and studied a little on the side as it made him a more attractive tuk-tuk driver for tourists. He admitted to me that he wished he could learn more as well as return to school to get his bachelor's degree and eventually go to grad school. He was tired of being a driver who only made $10.00 a day and wished for a life where he could get a hourly salary. I felt for this gentleman but am not going to act naive. There are a lot of people in his situation. It is the reality not only in this town and this country but in many places throughout the world. His dream of a different life was not what got to me. Instead it was what he told me next that affected me (which I will summarize from memory):

"I met a wonderful husband and wife from the United States while driving them to the temples when they visited. They were going to be in town for a while an employed me as their driver. Both of them were extremely nice and extremely generous. They took me out to dinner and treated me with respect. I built a friendship with them and by the end of their time here I was not just the driver. Before they left the American couple asked if they could sponsor my education (the only thing really keeping this man out of school is the money, he is intelligent and has qualified to begin by passing the necessary tests). I was very excited. They got all of the information from the university of how to pay for my education and then left for America. That was a month ago. I haven't heard from them since and they won't return my email...."

This kind man had his dream crushed by a couple from America who was taken a back by the situation on the ground here in Siem Reap. They felt implored to do something, made a promise and then returned back to a comfortable lifestyle in the states and apparently (I really hope not) have forgotten about what they said they would do for another human being whose life could be changed by this educational opportunity. From what I have observed, and heard from many other volunteers, Westerners (not only Americans) enjoy travelling to places like Siem Reap for vacation, attempt to make a difference by promising they will help and then do nothing. I have pondered a lot about why I think this is. I am not an expert on this topic, or anything for that matter, but, after all, this is my blog so I will share some insight.

Those of use who have grown up in free, prospering nations (Westerners) have been given a lot of things in our life just for being members of a certain society. For example, in America, most children are given a promise of a future through education. And yes, many of you are thinking: "there are plenty of kids in America who don't get the proper education and have a worse life because of that." This is completely true and I will not argue that. However, the overall majority of children under the age of 18 in the United States are provided an education that allows them, if they choose, to succeed in life. I grew up on Long Island where the promise of education was a central part of everyday living. Not only did I attend public school but I also attended Hebrew School. Two educations. During my final year in high school I spent a lot of time thinking about and researching the next education I would receive. I inevitably ended up at an incredible place of higher education, Union College, which has given me this opportunity. Education, learning and knowledge throughout my life has been expected (and often promised to me) so that I could one day succeed in the "real world." The constant flow of education for most people in America (myself included) creates a situation where we, Westerners, very easily take learning for granted. Not appreciating the ability to go to school is easy when all you have ever done is go to school...


Teaching at The Global Child, although only for a short period of time so far, as well as interacting with my volleyball friend and the owner of McBuddha and his friends (who I now teach English to at 6:00pm every other day), has shown me how much education and more important the simple opportunity for education means to people who aren't promised it. Learning here is a privilege, not a right. Yes, there are government schools that kids "must" attend but the regulation and enforcement of this rule is more than lax. Instead, children grow up working to support their families, missing school to make money. Eventually many end up like my friend the tuk-tuk driver, wishing that his dream of becoming an educated member of society would come true. My students at TGC are the lucky ones. They HAVE been given the opportunity for a more promising future. The best part is: they still don't take anything for granted. Not their education, not the money they make to come to school, not even the pen they write with.

As I sit here and write this I can't help but think about how I didn't always appreciate school. I went, I got decent grades and I did what was expected of me: went to a wonderful college. I very much appreciated my college experience and all that Union offered me both academically and socially. I can not say the same for my high school and middle school years. We all have regrets in life and not taking school as seriously as I should have (sorry mom and dad but I have to be honest with myself) is one of mine. This is a reality for many people, including a lot of my friends We simply took school for granted. Maybe this is why people come here and make promises. They don't know what it is like to be on the receiving end of a broken promise. Moreover, they don't understand what it means to not have education in their lives, making it hard to comprehend how much damage promising education to someone can do....

I am not making any promises, because promises are just words. Promises can be broken and so too can the dreams of REAL people. Instead, I will make lesson plans, English games, and smiles. I will play soccer, be a role model and a mentor. I will help a child learn vocab, a restaurant owner edit his menu (markarita=margarita) and a tuk-tuk driver go to school. Finally, I will make sure to learn from these people who do not take anything for granted so that I too can truly appreciate all that life has to offer...even if its just a game of volleyball.






Monday, July 23, 2012

A little work, a little fun....

I have now been in Siem Reap for approximately one week.  To be completely honest, it feels much longer than this, as the last week has been scattered with so many different wonderful activities.  I have been getting a lot of questions from friends and family about life here, asking me to be more specific about the food, the people, my work, and from some (mostly from the fine men of the Delta Kappa Epsilon Fraternity) about the night life (different time, different post).  My goal for this post is to fill everyone in on what I have been up to while simultaneously providing information about the requested categories.  So here it goes: 


1.  The Global Child:  My work at the global child has just begun and will heavily increase over the next week.  Amanda and I have had our preliminary meetings with the staff at TGC and have been shown the logistical side of our teaching.  For example, Chanthy (the program coordinator) has so kindly shown and taught us about lesson plans, attendance, and many other policies of the school.  Dara Heng, the school principal, has welcome us with open arms and provided information about expectations and such.  Amanda and I will officially begin teaching/observing this week.  I am beyond excited to get started with the students, that is why I came here and when that work begins I will finally begin to feel like I serve a purpose.  Currently, the settling in stage has been very beneficial to my success as a resident of Siem Reap but has done little to satisfy my desire to change lives/have my life changed.  This has been a somewhat difficult reality to deal with as I have never really been one to sit and wait for something, I usually just go out and get it done.  I understand fully now that this is part of the experience and know that I will eventually cherish the lessons I have learned in my first week here. 


As part of our introduction to the school and working with children here, Amanda and I spent today at a training course hosted by an NGO called conCERT. The full day workshop focused on developing an understanding of Child Protection Laws and Policy in Cambodia. More specifically, the course worked to bridge the gap between Westerner's understanding of child/volunteer relationships and the reality in Cambodia. I found the course extremely useful as it better prepared me for the next nine months of teaching.




2.  Food:  The food here is extremely diverse. On one corner there is a Western restaurant serving up "American" style foods (most of it fried, not surprisingly).  On the opposite corner is a Mexican restaurant offering $1.50 margaritas (try to match that Bombers Burrito Bar) and quesadillas.  Down the street one can satisfy their hungry stomach with some traditional Khmer food consisting of rice, noodles and so much more! This place really has it all, including $.50 drafts and cheap mixed drinks.  I am enjoying the food here.  It is really nice to be able to explore the different traditional Cambodian dishes while always having a Western restaurant to fall back on.  My favorite place so far goes by the name McBuddha.  It is owned by a lovely family and I have grown fond of both the food and the hospitality. Also, the food is incredibly cheap.  Last night, Amanda and I dined at McBuddha and our meal consisted of: 1 stir fried noodles with chicken, 1 fried rice with chicken and egg, two beers and a bottle of water. I then decided to stay for one more beer with the son of the owner.  When all was said and done I had spent $4.00.  I imagine I will return to McBuddha again...probably tonight.  





3. The Temples: I have seen the pyramids of Giza, the old city of Jerusalem and the sky scrappers of New York.  I have been to the Grand Canyon, gone mountain biking in the wilderness of Whislter, BC, Canada and sailed around the Greek Islands of Mykonos, Santorini and Ios.  The temples of Angkor Wat and the surrounding area completely trump each one of these places...and it only took me twenty minutes on my bike to get there.  Spending almost the entire day in the Angkor Wat complex was well worth the $20.00 price of admission.  Riding my bike to the complex in the earlier morning hours and returning in the late afternoon, the day spent at the temples will, without question, be one of the most memorable days of my life.  Choosing to not get a tour guide Amanda and I biked, walked and sweat our way through some remarkable places that not only showed genius engineering and architecture but spoke volumes about the power of the people who decided to create these structures.  As a student of religion I was truly able to appreciate how much these temples meant to those who worshiped within the walls of these massive but inspiring walls. One thing I did notice throughout this journey was the builders loved steps.  More than this, they loved putting these steps at incredibly impossible angles.  I consider myself to be in fairly decent shape with strong legs created by years of running but these steps tested me.  It took a lot of energy and a ton of water (I drank two full nalgenes and three 1-litre bottles plus two Gatorade's and another nalgene upon return) to get me through these outstanding structures.  Upon arriving at the summit of Phimeanakas, I realized why these people had made it so difficult.  Prayer and worship was worth it to them, it was worth the climb and the energy to be closer to their gods.  I found this pretty inspiring and truthfully can not wait to have many more adventures in and around the temples.  There is still so much more to see and understand and I look forward to biking back to this "heaven on earth."  




For those of you who are fans of Tomb Raider, you will recognize this tree. 





All in all, life here is pretty wonderful.  Of course, I am still adjusting and will continue to do so for many weeks.  Things like purchasing a new pillow or getting goods at the market are still an adventure but are becoming easier.  People here are beginning to recognize my face and smile at me. Tuk-tuk drivers (taxis that are carts attached to moto's) still ask me if I want a ride but I suspect this will always be the case.  The week ahead will be challenging as I begin teaching.  It will be also be challenging as I continue to realize that this isn't a vacation.  I have had a hard time sitting still here, a feeling that has been created by the notion that I must be doing something in this city at all times.  This isn't necessarily the case though...this is my home now and I need to treat it as such...









Thursday, July 19, 2012

My new life: Siem Reap, Cambodia

A person does a lot of thinking when they sit in the same place for 14 hours. They think about the past and how they got to this point; how everything they have worked for has lead to this moment: an airplane seat on a Korean Air flight. I have heard people use the expression "hurry up and wait" before but never truly understood the meaning of it until my travel day. I drove to the airport, said goodbye to my parents (miss you already!) and anxiously walked through security, quickly grabbed some snacks and finally boarded the airplane. Now, it was time to wait.

The flight from John F. Kennedy airport to Seoul, Korean provided me some time to really think about what I was about to do. Until this point, my fellowship had seemed like more of a dream. This flight, however, made it seem like much more of a reality. Besides watching the entire first season of Game of Thrones as well as numerous other movies I attempted to think about what I want to accomplish, what I want to gain from this experience and, most importantly, what I want to give. As I settle in to this country these goals will become more solidified and I look forward to sharing them with all of you in the future.

After arriving at 10:30pm and meeting Chanthy, the program coordinator from The Global Child (TGC), Amanda and I were escorted to our house, which we are now calling "The Cottage." My first impression was great! We walked in to a nice sized living room, two wonderful bedrooms, a kitchen and bathroom. I entered what would be my room and was greeted by a very friendly yet large spider. Amanda was kind enough to give me the bigger room with the larger bed. We unpacked all of our stuff and began to settle in for the night. I was tired and fell asleep for most of the night and was happy to wake up in this new, exciting and wonderful place.

My first day here was an adventure. Chanthy arrived in the morning to give us a quick tour and take us to get bicycles (more on this later). After this we headed in to town to explore the famous pub street area. We stopped at a very nice restaurant called the"Blue Pumpkin" to use some wifi, have a drink and escape the heat for a few minutes. After relaxing for a bit we met up with Chanthy again and he took us to get cell phones. I got a Nokia and for all of you out there who remember the original Nokia cell phones with the snake game on it, I have it...be jealous iphone users. Next, Chanthy took us to Joe-to-go, a cafe in the main part of town that gives all of its profits to The Global Child. Meeting the staff was a pleasure and I look forward to working and collaborating with them. Finally, Amanda and I were taken to The Global Child to get our first introduction to the school. I must say that this place is everything I had imagined and more. The staff welcomed us with open arms and the children greeted us with huge smiles. A quick tour of the school revealed classrooms, work spaces and an energetic vibe. This small taste was enough to get me even more excited for the days ahead...

All and all it was a great first day, topped off by a wonderful evening with Amanda's family friends who were wonderful hosts at a traditional Cambodian BBQ.

Bicycling in Siem Reap: Don't Hesitate
For those of you who know me well you know that bike riding has been a great passion of mine since I was young. Whether it be on a mountain bike blazing through the trails or on my road bike gliding my way along bike paths and local streets, I feel extremely comfortable on a bike; it's natural to me. I was very excited to ride a bike in Siem Reap and for the first time in my life use a bike as a means of transportation and not a tool for recreation. Chanthy took us to a nice little bike shop where I decided to purchase a mountain bike made by a company called National. In this store (and mostly every bike store I have seen) the bike frames don't really go past a certain size, so I had to purchase a bike that was a little smaller then what I need (for those family members out there worried about my safety I cranked the seat post up a little higher to compensate for the smaller frame). I also got myself a sweet helmet and a lock...I was ready to take my first ride! And what a ride it was...

No traffic laws, fast moving moto's (scooters) and cars driven by people who may or may not have there license, and pedestrians = madness. The roads are crazy and the drivers are even more insane. It is really astonishing and impressive that the traffic is able to operate the way it does.

So, there I was, with my new bike, ready to join in on the fun. Some people argue that the best way to learn something is just to dive right in. If you want to teach someone how to swim throw them in a swimming pool. Well, if you want to show someone how to ride their bike in the traffic of Siem Reap, simply throw them in. I learned the rules pretty quickly:

1. Stay far over to the right; that is where bicycles go.

2. Pay attention. This is not a time to enjoy the sites.
3. DON'T HESITATE, if you need to make a turn, or want to get on a road just do it. You can not wait for people to let you go, they won't.
Biking in Siem Reap is like nothing I have experienced before. You have to be very careful while simultaneously not being too cautious. Finding this happy medium is a challenge but I think I am starting to get the hang of it.

Overall first impression: This city is truly incredible. It is a dirty, fast moving and an exciting place that I feel very comfortable in and I look forward to spending more time exploring all that it has to offer.

**Questions, comments, concerns? Just want to say hi?! Leave me some comments and I will be more than happy to reply!**

Thursday, July 12, 2012

The beginning...

January 22, 2012: I was sitting in my dorm room at Union College, holding an Elmer's glue stick and pair of craft scissors.  With a map of the world in front of me, I began the process of making my Minerva Fellowship application.  I had decided to put the entire application on to the map, marking off places that I had traveled to previously and describing how each place had changed me as a person.  After cutting, pasting and measuring, I finalized the initial part of my application and moved on to the next step: marking out the current locations of the Minerva Fellows.  These locations would then be linked to paragraphs about how the next step of my life, after Union College, would truly change me forever.  As I approached Cambodia I could only think about one thing: "Holy crap this place is far away..." 

My Minerva Fellowship Application Completed

Present Day: Suddenly, that foreign country of Cambodia is no longer so far away.  In a few short days I will be boarding an airplane to begin the next chapter of my life.  For the next 9 months I will be living in Siem Reap, Cambodia as a part of Union College's Minerva Fellowship (see side page for more information). My primary responsibility while abroad will be to work with The Global Child (TGC), a school that gives street children the opportunity to have an education and thus excel in life. (For more information about TGC please visit: http://www.theglobalchild.org/ )

Over the last few months, I have done my very best to prepare for this journey.  My preparation truly began with the return of last years Minerva Fellows (Carolyn Cannetti and Eliza Duquette).  These two incredible individuals have attempted to show me the way; providing me with tips, insight and the necessary knowledge I will need to succeed while in Siem Reap.  I must pause briefly to thank both Carolyn and Eliza for all they have done for TGC and for me.  The guidance both of you have given has been beyond valuable and I know that my transition to Cambodia will be easier because of you two.  Thank you.

More recently, I have been attempting to immerse myself in history and guide books with the hope that I will be able to develop a better idea of what life in Cambodia will be like.  These books have provided  worthwhile information that I hope will come in handy while abroad.  Moreover, I have procured the necessary shots, medications and items I will need while abroad.  My bags are mostly packed and my necessary travel documents are printed and ready to go.  I have done my very best to prepare over the last few months. Throughout this preparation process I have learned many different things.  However, the most important thing I have learned from the books, the packing, and the interactions with returning fellows is that you can not prepare for everything.  There will be speed bumps and even some roadblocks.  It is all about how you tackle these challenges.  

Emotionally, my feelings are all over the place.  It's hard to explain the feeling a person gets when they are about to move across the world.  It is a mixture between being sad, excited, nervous, anxious and happy.  If you know how that feels, then you'll understand what I am going through.  If you have never felt this way before just know that it is an extremely strange and confusing feeling.  Of course, I am going to miss my friends and family.  The people close to me have been an incredible support system for me prior to my departure and I thank each of you (you know who you are) for always encouraging me to succeed.

The journey ahead will undoubtedly be life changing.  I am extremely excited to see what the next nine months will bring and I hope that all of you join me on this adventure!

I leave you with the mantra of the Minerva Fellowship, and hope that it provides some understanding of what I am about to do:



Go to the people
Live with them
Learn from them
Love them.
Start with what they know
Build with what they have,
but with the best leaders
when the work is done
the task accomplished 
the people will say
"We have done this ourselves."
~Lau Tzu